Care & Restoration4 min read
Well-loved jewellery picks up the marks of everyday life: tarnish, scratches, a stretched chain or a stone that has worked loose. The good news is that a great deal can be put right. The important thing is knowing what restoration can do, where its limits are and how to protect the character and value of a piece along the way.
Tarnish: the easiest fix
Tarnish is the dark film that forms on silver as it reacts with the air. It looks dramatic but is usually only on the surface, which means it can normally be removed by professional cleaning and polishing without harming the piece.
At home, a soft polishing cloth made for jewellery is the gentlest option. Avoid abrasive powders and harsh chemicals, particularly on pieces with enamel, pearls or softer stones, which can be damaged by cleaners that are fine for plain metal.
Scratches and dullness
Light surface scratches can usually be polished away. Polishing works by removing a very fine layer of metal to create a smooth surface, so it should be done with skill and restraint. Repeated heavy polishing over many years can soften crisp edges and wear away engravings and hallmarks.
On engraved pieces such as a Return to Tiffany tag, the aim is to refresh the surface while protecting the lettering and marks. A good restorer will tell you when a deep scratch is better left slightly visible than polished out at the expense of the engraving.
Broken chains, clasps and jump rings
A snapped chain or a failing clasp is one of the most common repairs and is usually very fixable. Links can be rejoined and soldered, jump rings replaced and clasps repaired or renewed. Where possible, original components should be kept, as they contribute to the authenticity and value of a designer piece.
Loose or missing stones
If a stone feels loose, stop wearing the piece until it has been checked, as it can fall out without warning. Claws can be tightened or rebuilt and settings secured. Missing stones can often be replaced with a close match, although for designer pieces it is worth discussing how a replacement might affect value.
Resizing, reshaping and dents
Rings can often be resized, and bent or misshapen pieces reshaped. Some designs are harder to resize than others, for example rings with engraving or stones set all the way around the band, so an assessment is always the first step.
Plating and white gold
White gold is often finished with a rhodium plating, which gives it a bright white colour. Over time this can wear, letting a warmer tone show through. Re-plating is a routine way to refresh it. If a piece is plated base metal rather than solid gold or silver, it can be re-plated, but polishing will not restore it in the same way.
When restoration isn’t the right choice
Not every mark needs removing. On antique and vintage pieces, gentle wear can be part of the character, and over-restoring can reduce appeal. Some materials, such as enamel, pearls and certain softer stones, need specialist care. A good restorer will always explain the options, including doing less.
The best restoration is the one you can’t see, only the piece looking like itself again.
What affects the cost and time of a repair
Every repair is different, which is why an assessment comes before a quote. The main factors are:
- The metal. Platinum and gold need different techniques and materials from sterling silver.
- The extent of the damage. A single broken link is quicker than rebuilding worn claws or reshaping a crushed piece.
- Stones. Pieces with stones may need them removed and reset to work safely.
- Original components. Keeping original parts on a designer piece can take more care than replacing them, but it protects value.
Clear photos of the whole piece, the damage and any hallmarks help a goldsmith give you a realistic view before the piece is even in their hands.
Caring for jewellery between restorations
A little care goes a long way. Store pieces separately in soft pouches so they do not scratch each other, and keep silver in an airtight bag or box to slow tarnish. Take rings and bracelets off for the gym, gardening, cleaning and swimming, and put perfume and lotion on before your jewellery rather than after.
Every so often, check clasps, claws and chains for wear. Catching a loose stone or a weak link early is far easier, and cheaper, than replacing something that has been lost.
How Chic Revive works
Our in-house goldsmith repairs and restores fine and designer jewellery, including Tiffany & Co. pieces. You send photos of your piece and the damage, we review them and come back with a recommended repair and a quote, and no work begins until you approve it.
Pieces we sell through the Archive are cleaned, polished or restored where needed before they are listed, with their condition clearly graded.
Bring a favourite piece back to life
Send us photos of your jewellery and the damage, and our goldsmith will come back with a repair plan and quote.
Request a repair